Indore

STD Code: 0731

HISTORY

Indore is not of itself of great interest but it does make a good jumping off point for visiting Mandu. It's an affluent looking town, a major textile producing centre, with plenty of new houses and flats. The rivers Khan and Sarasvati run through the town. From 1733, the town was ruled by the Holkar dynasty who were firm supporters of the British even at the time of the mutiny

HOW TO GET THERE

¦ By air: Jet Airways and Alliance Air have regular flights to Indorefrom Bhopal, Delhi and Mumbai
¦ By road: Indore is 186 km from Bhopal by road

INFORMATION AND ORIENTATION

The older part of town is on the western side, the newer part on the east. The railway line forms a rough north-south dividing line while Mahatma Gandhi Rd bisects the town in an east-west direction. The railway and bus stations are quite close together but separated by a complicated flyover system. The Tourist Office (tel 38888), from where tours are operated to Mandu, is in the Sarwate bus station. Curiously there seem to be as many pigs congregating in the bus and train stations as the ever-present cows. Rupayana, by the Central Hotel, is a reasonably good bookshop.

WHERE TO STAY

¦ Hotel Fortune Landmark: Meghdoot Gardens; tel: 2557700
¦ Hotel President Planet: 3 RNT Marg; tel: 252 0808;

WHERE TO EAT

¦ Anjora Restaurant: Tower Chouraha, Sapna Sangita Main Rd; tel: 2460398
¦ Chinese Room Restaurant: UG-41, Navneet Plaza, Old Palasia; tel: 2264707

WHAT TO SEE

¦ Lai Bagh Palace: Indore was the playground of the Holkars and most of the monuments in the city date back to their reign. Commissioned in 1886 byTukoji Rao Holkar II, the Lai Bagh Palace reflects their impeccable taste and grand lifestyle.
¦ Rajwada Palace: In the old part of town the multistorey gateway of the Rajwada or 'old palace' looks out on to the main squ in the crowded streets of the Kaj Bazaar. This historic palace that blends three styles of architecture — Muslim, Maratha and French — has been burnt down thrice in its 200-year history. It used to be the residence of the Holkars but thanks to the three fires, only the fagade remains. It has recently been restored to some of its old glory.

PLACES OF WORSHIP

¦ Kanch Mandir: Close to the Rajwada, is the Kanch Mandir. This Jain temple is very plain externally but inside is completely mirrored with pictures of sinners being tortured in the after-life as light relief. The walls, ceilings, floors, pillars and even the doorknobs are inlaid with glass.
¦ Bada Ganapati: At a height of 25 ft, this could be the tallest Ganesha idol in the world. It's made of an interesting mix of materials: bricks, limestone, masala, jaggery, fenugreek seeds, soil collected from Ayodhya, Mathura, Maya, Kashi, Kanchi, Avantika and Dwarka; mud from the stables of elephants, cows, horses; the powder of diamonds, emeralds, pearls, rubies and topazes; and holy water from different places of pilgrimage. Gold, silver and brass are the metals used in its creation.

MUSEUMS

¦ Archaeological Museum: Famous for paintings from the Holkar School of Art, AB Road; tel: 2495417
¦ Lai Bagh Palace: Known for paintings and royal regalia; near RTO Office; tel: 2473264

AROUND INDORE

Omkareshwar: This island in the Narmada River was said to be the site of two of India's 12 great Shiva temples when Mahmud of Ghazni marched to Somnath to destroy the temple there in 1024. The Temple of Omkar was on the island and that of Manileshwar on the south bank of the river. Today the temples on the island and the nearby river banks have all been damaged by Moslems or time but there are still some very fine buildings to be seen. The island temples are all dedicated to Shiva but on the river banks are temples to Vishnu and Jain temples. Getting There Omkareshwar Road is on the railway line 60 km from Khandwa. Omkareshwar is 10 km from here. From Indore it is 80 km to Omkareshwar.
Maheshwar: The chattri of Ahalya Bai, who died in 1795, is located here. She was the widow of Malhar Rao Holkar's son (see Indore) and after his death she ruled with great ability. She also has a cenotaph in the Chattri Bagh in Indore. Maheshwar is 100 km from Indore on the banks of the Narmada River.
Dhar: Founded by Raja Bhoj, the legendary founder of Bhopal and Mandu also, this was the capital of Malwa until Mandu rose to power. There are good views from the ramparts of Dhar's well preserved fort. Dhar also has the large stone Bhojashala mosque with ancient Sanskrit inscriptions and the adjoining tomb of the Moslem saint Kamal Maul.